Part One: Preparing to Make Cold Process Soap
- 1
Gather
the ingredients. Cold process soap is made from
oils, lye and water. When these ingredients are combined at the right
temperature, they harden into soap in a process called saponification. Go to
your local craft store and grocery store to purchase the following ingredients:
Material
- Set up your soap-making workspace. It's easiest to clear a space in the kitchen, since you'll need to heat the ingredients over the stove. You'll be working with lye, a dangerous chemical, so make sure children and pets are not underfoot while you work. Spread newspaper over a table and assemble the following equipment, which can be sourced online or from your local craft store:
- Safety goggles and rubber gloves, to protect you from the lye.
- A scale to weigh the ingredients.
- A large stainless steel or enamel kettle. Do not use aluminum, and do not use a pot lined with non-stick surface.
- A glass or plastic wide-mouth pitcher, to hold the water and lye.
- A two-cup plastic or glass measuring cup.
- Plastic or wooden spoons.
- A stick blender, also called an immersion blender. This isn't absolutely necessary, but it reduces stirring time by about an hour.
- Two glass thermometers that register between 80-100 degrees F. Candy thermometers work well for this purpose.
- Plastic molds that are suitable for cold process soapmaking, or shoe box, or a wooden mold. If you use a shoebox or wooden mold, line it with parchment paper.
- Multiple towels for cleanup.
- 3
Read
up on how to work with lye safely.
Before you start the soap-making process, read the safety warnings that came on
your box of lye. Keep the following in mind as you handle lye or raw soap,
before it has been cured:
- Lye should never touch your skin, as it will burn you.
- Wear safety goggles and glove at all times while handling lye and raw soap.
- Work with lye outside or in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing in fumes.
Measure
12 ounces of lye Apply for details: call +2348036721009, +2348076075205, *2347088788710. e_mail: vestersms.com@gmail.co for details.
Pour
the soap into your mold. If you
are using a shoebox or wooden mold, make sure it is lined with parchment paper.
Use an old plastic spatula to scrape out the last bits of soap from the pot to
the mold.
- Be sure you are still wearing gloves and safety goggles during this step, since raw soap is caustic and can burn skin.
- Carefully hold the mold an inch or two above the table and drop it. Do this a few times to work out any air bubbles inside the raw soap.
- 2
Cover
the mold. If you're using a shoebox as a mold,
put the lid on it and cover with with several towels. If you're using a soap
mold, tape a piece of cardboard over the top before adding towels.
- The towels help insulate the soap to allow saponification to occur.
- Leave the soap covered, undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the air-conditioner) for 24 hours.
- 3
Check
the soap. The soap will go through a gel
stage and a heat process during the 24 hours. Uncover the soap and let it sit
for another 12 hours, then see what the results are.
- If you measured accurately and followed the directions, the soap may have a light layer of a white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically harmless and can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal spatula.
- If the soap has a deep oily film on top, it cannot be used, because it has separated. This will occur if your measurements were not accurate, you did not stir long enough, or if there is a drastic difference in the temperatures of the lye and oils when they are mixed.
- If the soap did not set at all, or has white or clear pockets in it, this means it is caustic and cannot be used. This is caused by under-stirring during the soap-making process.
- 1
Unmold
the soap. Turn the box or mold over and
allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean surface.
- 2
Cut
the soap into bars. You need to use tension to cut
soap of this type. You can use a sharp knife, a length of wire with two
handles, or heavy nylon string or fishing line.
- 3
Allow
the soap to cure. Set the soap on top of parchment
paper on a flat surface or a drying rack for two weeks to allow the
saponification process to complete and the soap to fully dry. Turn the soap
over after two weeks to let it dry on the other side.
- 4
Use
the soap after one month. When the
soap has fully cured, use it in your own bathroom or wrap it up and give it to
your friends. It will keep indefinitely.
- Lye can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware store or purchased online. Make sure the package says it is 100% sodium hydroxide.
- Don't use perfume as a fragrance, especially if it contains alcohol. It will alter the chemical reaction that's taking place between the lye and the fats, and will cause your soap to fail. You can use natural essential oils or fragrances that are specifically manufactured for use in soaps. A little bit of essential oil or fragrance goes a long way. You may only need a teaspoon or so.
- Temperature is crucial when mixing the oils with the lye. If they are too hot, they will separate; if they are too cool, they won't turn into soap.
Pour
the soap into your mold. If you
are using a shoebox or wooden mold, make sure it is lined with parchment paper.
Use an old plastic spatula to scrape out the last bits of soap from the pot to
the mold.
- Be sure you are still wearing gloves and safety goggles during this step, since raw soap is caustic and can burn skin.
- Carefully hold the mold an inch or two above the table and drop it. Do this a few times to work out any air bubbles inside the raw soap.
- 2
Cover
the mold. If you're using a shoebox as a mold,
put the lid on it and cover with with several towels. If you're using a soap
mold, tape a piece of cardboard over the top before adding towels.
- The towels help insulate the soap to allow saponification to occur.
- Leave the soap covered, undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the air-conditioner) for 24 hours.
- 3
Check
the soap. The soap will go through a gel
stage and a heat process during the 24 hours. Uncover the soap and let it sit
for another 12 hours, then see what the results are.
- If you measured accurately and followed the directions, the soap may have a light layer of a white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically harmless and can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal spatula.
- If the soap has a deep oily film on top, it cannot be used, because it has separated. This will occur if your measurements were not accurate, you did not stir long enough, or if there is a drastic difference in the temperatures of the lye and oils when they are mixed.
- If the soap did not set at all, or has white or clear pockets in it, this means it is caustic and cannot be used. This is caused by under-stirring during the soap-making process.
- 1
Unmold
the soap. Turn the box or mold over and
allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean surface.
- 2
Cut
the soap into bars. You need to use tension to cut
soap of this type. You can use a sharp knife, a length of wire with two
handles, or heavy nylon string or fishing line.
- 3
Allow
the soap to cure. Set the soap on top of parchment
paper on a flat surface or a drying rack for two weeks to allow the
saponification process to complete and the soap to fully dry. Turn the soap
over after two weeks to let it dry on the other side.
- 4
Use
the soap after one month. When the
soap has fully cured, use it in your own bathroom or wrap it up and give it to
your friends. It will keep indefinitely.
- Lye can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware store or purchased online. Make sure the package says it is 100% sodium hydroxide.
- Don't use perfume as a fragrance, especially if it contains alcohol. It will alter the chemical reaction that's taking place between the lye and the fats, and will cause your soap to fail. You can use natural essential oils or fragrances that are specifically manufactured for use in soaps. A little bit of essential oil or fragrance goes a long way. You may only need a teaspoon or so.
- Temperature is crucial when mixing the oils with the lye. If they are too hot, they will separate; if they are too cool, they won't turn into soap.
Pour
the soap into your mold. If you
are using a shoebox or wooden mold, make sure it is lined with parchment paper.
Use an old plastic spatula to scrape out the last bits of soap from the pot to
the mold.
- Be sure you are still wearing gloves and safety goggles during this step, since raw soap is caustic and can burn skin.
- Carefully hold the mold an inch or two above the table and drop it. Do this a few times to work out any air bubbles inside the raw soap.
- 2
Cover
the mold. If you're using a shoebox as a mold,
put the lid on it and cover with with several towels. If you're using a soap
mold, tape a piece of cardboard over the top before adding towels.
- The towels help insulate the soap to allow saponification to occur.
- Leave the soap covered, undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the air-conditioner) for 24 hours.
- 3
Check
the soap. The soap will go through a gel
stage and a heat process during the 24 hours. Uncover the soap and let it sit
for another 12 hours, then see what the results are.
- If you measured accurately and followed the directions, the soap may have a light layer of a white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically harmless and can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal spatula.
- If the soap has a deep oily film on top, it cannot be used, because it has separated. This will occur if your measurements were not accurate, you did not stir long enough, or if there is a drastic difference in the temperatures of the lye and oils when they are mixed.
- If the soap did not set at all, or has white or clear pockets in it, this means it is caustic and cannot be used. This is caused by under-stirring during the soap-making process.
- 1
Unmold
the soap. Turn the box or mold over and
allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean surface.
- 2
Cut
the soap into bars. You need to use tension to cut
soap of this type. You can use a sharp knife, a length of wire with two
handles, or heavy nylon string or fishing line.
- 3
Allow
the soap to cure. Set the soap on top of parchment
paper on a flat surface or a drying rack for two weeks to allow the
saponification process to complete and the soap to fully dry. Turn the soap
over after two weeks to let it dry on the other side.
- 4
Use
the soap after one month. When the
soap has fully cured, use it in your own bathroom or wrap it up and give it to
your friends. It will keep indefinitely.
- Lye can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware store or purchased online. Make sure the package says it is 100% sodium hydroxide.
- Don't use perfume as a fragrance, especially if it contains alcohol. It will alter the chemical reaction that's taking place between the lye and the fats, and will cause your soap to fail. You can use natural essential oils or fragrances that are specifically manufactured for use in soaps. A little bit of essential oil or fragrance goes a long way. You may only need a teaspoon or so.
- Temperature is crucial when mixing the oils with the lye. If they are too hot, they will separate; if they are too cool, they won't turn into soap.
-
Pour the soap into your mold. If you are using a shoebox or wooden mold, make sure it is lined with parchment paper. Use an old plastic spatula to scrape out the last bits of soap from the pot to the mold.
- Be sure you are still wearing gloves and safety goggles during this step, since raw soap is caustic and can burn skin.
- Carefully hold the mold an inch or two above the table and drop it. Do this a few times to work out any air bubbles inside the raw soap.
- 2
Cover the mold. If you're using a shoebox as a mold, put the lid on it and cover with with several towels. If you're using a soap mold, tape a piece of cardboard over the top before adding towels.- The towels help insulate the soap to allow saponification to occur.
- Leave the soap covered, undisturbed, and out of air drafts (including the air-conditioner) for 24 hours.
- 3
Check the soap. The soap will go through a gel stage and a heat process during the 24 hours. Uncover the soap and let it sit for another 12 hours, then see what the results are.- If you measured accurately and followed the directions, the soap may have a light layer of a white ash-like substance on the top. This is basically harmless and can be scraped away with the edge of an old ruler or metal spatula.
- If the soap has a deep oily film on top, it cannot be used, because it has separated. This will occur if your measurements were not accurate, you did not stir long enough, or if there is a drastic difference in the temperatures of the lye and oils when they are mixed.
- If the soap did not set at all, or has white or clear pockets in it, this means it is caustic and cannot be used. This is caused by under-stirring during the soap-making process.
- 1
Unmold the soap. Turn the box or mold over and allow the soap to fall on a towel or clean surface.- 2
Cut the soap into bars. You need to use tension to cut soap of this type. You can use a sharp knife, a length of wire with two handles, or heavy nylon string or fishing line.- 3
Allow the soap to cure. Set the soap on top of parchment paper on a flat surface or a drying rack for two weeks to allow the saponification process to complete and the soap to fully dry. Turn the soap over after two weeks to let it dry on the other side.- 4
Use the soap after one month. When the soap has fully cured, use it in your own bathroom or wrap it up and give it to your friends. It will keep indefinitely.- Lye can be found in the plumbing section of most hardware store or purchased online. Make sure the package says it is 100% sodium hydroxide.
- Don't use perfume as a fragrance, especially if it contains alcohol. It will alter the chemical reaction that's taking place between the lye and the fats, and will cause your soap to fail. You can use natural essential oils or fragrances that are specifically manufactured for use in soaps. A little bit of essential oil or fragrance goes a long way. You may only need a teaspoon or so.
- Temperature is crucial when mixing the oils with the lye. If they are too hot, they will separate; if they are too cool, they won't turn into soap.
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